It’s been raining non-stop for the 3rd straight day, but rain cannot stop Bob. It can deter me, but not Bob. He wants to continue travelling: bastard!
I cycled through the Cordillera Central (Puerto Rico’s mountain range) on the third day. The view, which in dry conditions is spectacular, was nothing more than fog scintillated by the occasional light of an incoming car.
I guess it was better not to see the mountain tops, because I doubt I would’ve finished the day had I seen I what I was up against. After crossing 4-5 mountain towns, I called it quits in Cayey.  I dragged my sorry looking drenched self into a quaint restaurant on the side of the road: Lechonera (pig roaster) El Cuñao.
El Cuñao (literally, brother-in-law) sells traditionally slow roasted pig, and has been doing so for over 65 years. Three generations of the Lopez family along with a couple dozen locals serve a myraid of customers on any given day. On a busy Sunday afternoon, there’s a staff of over 20 workers. The restaurant serves a variety of local plates (the rice and beans are to die for), but their mainstay is roasted pork. Over 20 pigs weighing over 100lbs each end their careers in El Cuñao every week (100 per week during the Christmas holidays).
El Cuñao is yet another of the plethora of well oiled family run restaurants along the mountainous region. Its walls are lined with local and international sports figures, and every conceivable local political figure from the 40’s, till today.
One of the owners welcomed me, and a little after learning of my odyssey, offered me a large bathroom/cabin to camp for the night. I spent all afternoon talking with locals, eating arroz-con-dulce (rice pudding), and quietly typing away since I have full 3G signal on my cell phone.
I am continually amazed at the local hospitality in the rural areas. I would’ve spent quite a few cold rainy nights out on the side of the road, had it not been for the generosity of folks along la Cordillera Central.
If you’re ever in town, El Cuñao is definitely a place to stop by, not only for the food, but for the exquisite ambience.
